Πεταλας

From Cape Lefkada (Capo Bianco), we enter the bay of Petalas.
The sea is calm, windless, almost deserted. Only four sailboats lie in the distance.

This area is significant for its connection to the Acheloos River (Αχελώος), vital for agriculture in the region.

In 1991, Massimo sailed about six miles upriver on the 10.5-meter-long catamaran Tangaroa (named after a Maori god).

“On the way back, near the river’s mouth, while searching for a spot to dock, a voice emerged from the reeds:
‘Are you Italians? I studied in Naples!’

Docked by the riverbank, the man approached us and invited us to his home for dinner. Meanwhile, people—mostly women and children—from the nearby houses gathered around, climbing onto our boat. We offered them biscuits and water.

That evening at their home, they served us tomatoes and bread.

When we returned to the boat, the man, concerned we might not have eaten enough, asked again and, without hesitation, invited us back for dinner with his family.”

This was an experience of filoxenia—the spirit of hospitality rediscovered in Greece. Even today, it can still be found in the humility of those who arrive and the kindness of those who extend dialogue and generosity.

The Acheloos, one of the longest rivers in Greece, has been a lifeline for the surrounding agricultural plains since antiquity. Its fertile delta supports farming communities and provides a lush contrast to the arid cliffs and rocky shores of the Ionian coastline. In mythology, Acheloos is personified as a god of freshwater, symbolizing abundance and life.

Naming the catamaran Tangaroa after the Maori god of the sea adds a universal element to the narrative, connecting the Mediterranean voyage to Polynesian traditions. Tangaroa, revered as a creator and protector of the oceans, parallels the Mediterranean’s own myths of Poseidon and Acheloos, uniting cultures across the seas.

Filoxenia (φιλοξενία), or "friend to the stranger," is an ancient Greek concept deeply ingrained in the culture. It reflects the belief that welcoming strangers is a sacred duty, often associated with Zeus Xenios, the protector of travelers. The story of the man by the river, his invitation to dinner, and the communal gathering on the boat exemplifies this enduring tradition.

Even today, in rural and less touristic areas of Greece, acts of spontaneous generosity remain a hallmark of the culture, revealing the warmth and openness of its people.