Bari-Rome, 21th april 2017
We arrived to Bari, with 6 hours late because the weather and the sea. The road to Rome has to be changed. It is raining cats and dog and we are wet and cold. We stopped in a bar long the street and tryed to dry ourself. We cannot take the street towards Abruzzo because there is snowing. So we decide to go through the country passing Basilicata to Napoli. It is cold, we need to put plastic bags on our shoes and under our gloves. Without stopping we reach Salerno-Napoli. The sun is setting Napoli is behind us. We are almost there.
On the horizon Bari .... then back to Rome.
Gravena-Igoumenistsa, 20th april 2017
We say goodbye to Gravena driving toward Igoumenista.
The chosen street is through the Pindos. The rain, the sun and the waters of the river are our companions. We must be in Igoumenitsa this evening. Let’s start the journey through the mountains!
Veneticos is an other affluent of Aliakmonas river. Ἁλιάκμων was in greek mithology one of the sons of Okeanos and Thetys, sea nymph and goddess of water. An ancient tradition says that sheep that drank water from Aliakmon would turn their colour to white. This tradition is not more transmitted surely but I can immagine that in Grevena the people will know about this tradition in some fairy tails.
Portitsa Bridge is signing the end of the valley of Kanavi, between the mountains of Spileo and Lykotrypa, This Bridge was built in the XVIII century and is the only land passage between the Spileo an Monachiti Mountian.
The atmosfera here is amazing. The air and sound of Nature are giving us energies and peace.
Before reaching to the top of the pass to Metsovo we stop to drink at the fountain. Along this road there are several. No one walks the road except us, the woods line the asphalt and the rain drops bathe our faces softly.
The weather is really not good. Not only for the rain but the wind is so strong and became stronger than higher on the mountain we drive. The loneliness on the road, the doubt to have chosen the right way! Also if the wind don't gives me confidence that I will make it without difficulties. I start to think on the power of willingness and my concentration on the body is the mantra in this moment for me. I have to manage to don't go out of the street because the wind.
I’m chanting to concentrate my thoughts.
'Capita di morire più volte al giorno./ Si muore anche tutte le notti. / Sparati, investiti, con una botta in testa / di schiena, di gomito o di culo/in silenzio o col frastuono di sirene. / con un pubblico o da soli. / Da cani randagi, da regine scronate. / Di schiaffi si muore, di offese umilianti / di bugie incancrenite, di colpe o di rimorso/ di debiti a venire e crediti a rimandare / di cose mute che sverminano in bocca, / di troppa fatica alle giunture, di scoramento.
Si muore tante volte e pure di pomeriggio / poi ci si alza e si va, come se niente fosse. / finché non sei morto, ne hai da morire.
(''La prima verita' Simona Vinci p.229)
I will do it! Long the road the nature is wonderful, I keep concentrate to don't be rushed against the rock... Tarantina is great and goes forward with me.
METSOVO
The clouds cames more and more black, but finally we arrived to Metsovo! Gasoline for Tarantina we arrived risking to stop without petrol during the downhill. It is 2 pm and we take a rest at the taverna. There we eat all what we could, putting our clothes on front of the fire. Two hours stop with a magnific meal and atmosphere of welcoming. We did it! :-)
5 pm the way to Igoumenitsa is chosen toward the Egnatia. I cannot effort more country side road because my arm. I would like it but there are some realities to accept.
Igoumenitsa. We arrived for the sunset. The sea is wonderful on front of us. We greet Nature the sound and energy of this sea and its waves.
“Then flesh dissolved, glances congealed, the heart's pulse stopped,
and the great mind leapt to the peak of its holy freedom,
fluttered with empty wings, then upright through the air
soared high and freed itself from its last cage, its freedom.
All things like frail mist scattered till but one brave cry
for a brief moment hung in the calm benighted waters:
''Forward, my lads, sail on, for Death's breeze blows in a fair wind!"
(Nikos Katzanzakis)
“Una goccia da quel blu / dove il mistero del suo colore / affiora le nostre menti... / Le nuvole non avevano pace, lei segue quella retta che / la fisica impone, / verso la terra che tanto l'attende. / Sfiora quel soffio che non ha nome / e balla felice portata con un dito e / abbracciata svincolandosi / da ogni ragione / fino a lasciarsi lentamente... / Riprende il suo viaggio verso te / Cade la goccia sul mio volto / Porta con sè la vita! / I fiori sbocciano / Gli ulivi si risvegliano /I corpi si muovono delicati / nel bacio di lei.”
“ A drop from that blue / where the mystery of its color / surf our minds ... The clouds had no peace, following that straight that physics dictates, / towards the land that awaits it so much. / Grazes that breath that has no name / and dance happily keeped by a finger and / embracing by freeing herself / for all reasons / until I let myself go ... / He resumes his journey towards you / The drop falls on my face / Bring life with! / The flowers bloom / The olive trees awake / the bodies move delicate / in the kiss of her. “
(khriyannis)
Katerini - Thessaloniki, 19th 2017
The rain leaved the space to the sun and at 6 am I wake up. The allarm of my daily life in Rome rings, my body wakes up and after buying a Tyropita and filled the bottle of water the trip toward Thessaloniki starts.
I'm thinking at the dialogue with Katherina and Pericles last night at the Dionisi place on the Platia of Libadi. Pericles is computer programmer and he lost since three years his job. Katernina works in a nursery school as teacher in Katerini. Their decision since little is to stay at Libadi. They work now both at the the family's tavern.
In this Region the people speaks greek and blaki that has some latin proforà of words and the same meaning, a memory of the Roman Empire.
The temperature is cold, but the sunshine is giving me energy as the beautiful light on the trees around the street. The Olympus with the snow petting it, follows me without clouds that had hidden yesterday with all its delicate magnificence and legendary history.
The coffe I will drink it at the sea on front of the Thermaikos gulf, this is my wish!
Before some gazoline....
After 63km through a merveillous street I arrived at the paralia of Katerini.
I seat on a bench on front of the sea. Silence on front of its wonder.
Nearby me people working. Eastern is passed. The daily workdays started again.
A lady seats on front the sea too, with her shopping bag on her feet, closing her eyes the face on the sun.
From Katerini I drive on the road that runs along the sea. At Pydna I stopped on the little fishermans port. They are speaking in arabic and are here.
The smell of the sea is reaching me and I'm happy to be here.
I continue on the Egnatia to reach Thessaloniki. The city where my father and his family lived and leaved. The traffic is welcome us, the motobike and me enter in the city where I lived during the university for 6 months.
The sea on my right and Lefkos Pyrgos on front of me. A little stop in Thessaloniki for lunch. A new building at the port where cinema and restaurants are in function. Thessaloniki film festival is running every year here. How long I don't go the the cinema!
At the Gonià, in Afroditis Street, Dionisi welcomed with piperiés, patates tiganità and soublakia. His daughter married Fabio from Palermo and now they live in Düsseldorf.
Nearby are Italian working on the underground. They are building in Thessaloniki and they came to eat to his little restaurant on the street, he seems proud to can tell it.
The weather is not giving me confidence to be good tomorrow too. So the road started again after a little walk on the port.
Next stop Grevenà.
Gravena, 19th april 2017
The wind is strong, the Egnatia Road is plenty of trucks running on my left and on my right. I had to be concentrate to menage the wind of the trucks passing by and the wind from the mountains. My left arm is paining more and more and its start to rain softly. “Tarantina”, is strong and helps me to be compact on her. I trust on her! Finally after six hours road we arrived at 7 pm to Gravena. I will stop here for one night
Gravena is situated on the road that connect Thessaloniki to Igoumenitsa and to the east to Alexandroupoli. Here the mountains surrounding the city of about 13.000 inhabitants. Gravina is situated by the river Greveniotikos, which flows into the Aliakmon, the longest river in Greece. Aliakmon, for this region is not only important as source of fish and therefore nutrition and local economy but above all because its interesting history. This river demarcates the region of Makedonia and Thessalia and it’s the largest river in Greece which flows entirely in the greek territory.
We slept in the only Hotel that was open, the lady form the Farmacy gived us the advise to go there. I parked on front of the Hotel and went in to ask. There was Kostas and his wife working, they gived us a little pretty room on face of the forest. Millionis is the name of the hotel. Kostas, the owner, with his family is preparing for next Saturday a wedding here. There are people coming to visit him taking coffee together and talking about money and the economical situation in Greece. The son of Kostas works with his parents in the hotel. He returned from Germany to help them.
Gravenioticos is an affluent of Aliakmon river. Ἁλιάκμων was in greek mithology one of the sons of Okeanos and Thetys, sea nymph and goddess of water. An ancient tradition says that sheep that drank water from Aliakmon would turn their colour to white. This tradition is not more transmitted surely but I can immagine that in Grevena the people will know about this tradition in some fairy tails.
Portitsa Bridge
The weather is really not good. Not only for the rain but the wind is strong and stronger than higher on the mountain I drive. The loneliness on the road, the doubt to have chosen the right way! But yes! Also if the wind don't gives me confidence that I will make it without difficulties. I love It! I start to thing the power and concentration on the body I manage to don't go out of the street.
I start to chanting to concentrate my thoughts.
'Capita di morire più volte al giorno./ Si muore anche tutte le notti. / Sparati,investiti, con una botta in testa / di schiena, di gomito o di culo/in silenzio o col frastuono di sirene. / con un pubblico o da soli. / Da cani randagi, da regine scronate. / Di schiaffi si muore, di offese umilianti / di bugie incancrenite, di colpe o di rimorso/ di debiti a venire e crediti a rimandare / di cose mute che sverminano in bocca, / di troppa fatica alle giunture, di scoramento.
Si muore tante volte e pure di pomeriggio / poi ci si alza e si va, come se niente fosse. / finché non sei morto, ne hai da morire.
(''La prima verita' Simona Vinci p.229)
I will do it! Long the road the nature is wonderful, I keep concentrate to don't be rushed against the rock... Taranta is great and goes forward with me.
Finally arrived to Metsovo! Gazoline for Tatti and I take a rest at the taverna.
The clouds cames more and more black. Two hours stop with a magnific meal and atmosphere in the room with a fire where to dry the jacket and shoes and people coming with family to eat too.
5 pm the way to Igoumenitsa is chosen toward the Egnatia. I would like to continue the adventure on the lateral street, but better so.
Una goccia da quel blu
dove il mistero del suo colore
affiora le nostre menti...
Le nuvole non avevano pace,
lei segue quella retta che
la fisica impone,
verso la terra che tanto l'attende.
Sfiora quel soffio che non ha nome
e balla felice portata con un dito e
abbracciata svincolandosi
da ogni ragione
fino a lasciarsi lentamente...
Riprende il suo viaggio verso te
Cade la goccia sul mio volto
Porta con sè la vita!
I fiori sbocciano
Gli ulivi si risvegliano
i corpi si muovono delicati
nel bacio
di lei.
On the horizon Bari .... then back to Rome.
Libati 18th april 2017
The rain leaved the space to the sun and at 6 am I wake up. The allarm of my daily life in Rome rings, my body wakes up and after buying a Tyropita and filled the bottle of water the trip toward Thessaloniki starts.
I'm thinking at the dialogue with Katherina and Pericles last night at the Dionisi place on the Platia of Libadi. Pericles is computer programmer and he lost since three years his job. Katernina works in a nursery school as teacher in Katerini. Their decision since little is to stay at Libadi. They work now both at the the family's tavern.
In this Region the people speaks greek and blaki that has some latin proforà of words and the same meaning, a memory of the Roman Empire.
Libati 17th april 2017
Walking up on the mountain the view of water cistern. Libati has water from two sources from the mountain and two artificial cistern.
It's raining cats and dogs. A friend of mine commented "Ah, these gods!".
We will stay surely a more night here. The motobike is covered in the garage of Antoni, no better accommodation for both. He is welcoming us and he is open because it’s Easter. We have luck to can stay in his hotel. He is giving us the keys of the hotel after we told him that because the weather we cannot make our trip forward.
The rain stops a little and I have a walk in Lebati village. This village was burned twice from the German during the Second War. Anastasi tells how the house of his grandmother was burned within his family.
Anastasi and Georgios lives in Katerini and came to Libati to have the famous sweet in this raining afternoon. They told about a source in the top of the mountain where they went just before I meet them, where the water gives 'you 5 years more of life'. The source and the water is celebrate traditionally the 15th of August every year.
A fountain on the way on the mountain of Libati
Igoumenitsa- Mestovo - Libati, 16th april 2017
Bari is now behind us and the horizon where the sea touches the sky meets the dark of the night on front of us. We are going to prepare the trip for tomorrow. In the ferry there are most of all truckers, a guy of Ancona is with us. He is going to Rodos for his saison work in a tourist village. His with its motobike. We are not the only one.
16th April 5.30 am Igoumenitsa.
The light of the night is shining with the moon and stars. The smells of the morning and the temperature is making me touching thoughts of what I forget at home and the cold body is slowly getting colder and colder. The light of the sunrise coming make around us a beautiful panorama of nature with its colors and sound. I stopped to make gymnastic and get some warm effect on me. a guy walking on the opposite of the Egnatia. My arm to say him hallo, his voice to say me hallo.
Riding 70 km in the cold was not a joke. I didn’t aspect this low temperature!
Finally arrived in Ioannina! I looked for a sunny place in its square on the lake. My face on the sun, my legs are slowly taking temperature .... fantastic gift of nature!
The Lake Pamvotis is on the feeds of Mitsekeli Mountain, 470 metres altitude.
From Ioannina the street to Metsovo with water source that has a holy name as in Greece is tradition. Religion and paganism are strictly connected.
The sun is giving its warmth and now the eyes start to connect on the environment around the street as a gift. The thinking is going to my children, to their reality so different from me but part of me. Now here in Greece a trip that start to be deeply connected on what vitality wants to mean and where this energies takes my in which direction.
The greek music in our stops in bars and tavernes, are witness of the standing this research of roots, can be better to be in this beauty and listen this rhythms as part of life and enjoying it. Talking, keep on and build relation is what I see in this trip. There are difficulties and serious, but with the humanity that's not forgotten, what I feel to be slowly disappearing in my life in the wonderful Rome.
Through the Mountains Chassia passing through camps of flowers, flowering trees and the inevitable goats that crossing the streets!
Malakasi village is welcome us with its vitality, people on the little traditional streets that we are passing through. Next stop Kalabaka where the Pineios the biggest river in Thessaly flows. with a total length of more than 200 km. It rises in the beautiful Pindos Range, crosses the Plain of Thessaly and the Valley of Tempi. What I see almost is a river that suffers and lacks of water...
Kalabaka and the river Pindos on the Horizon. View from the Byzantine Temple of Meteora.
From Kalabaka taking advantage of the sun and the strength to continue the journey, step towards Olympus!
Arrived to Libadi taking the mountains street crossing forest, with the air of the mountain I parked on front a bar asking where to go to sleep. Antoni there I go, the people celebrating the Eaters and me with a big desire to have dinner as I used to have in Greece with my family in Thessaloniki.
I'm starting to feel what really is this trip. Again in Greece and to look for roots and stories to understand myself again.
Bari, 15th april 2017
My first trip on the road with “Tarantina” focusing and researching meanings and water realities. Human beings that I will meet will be my special goal to discover meanings of water in this part of the mediterranean.
The Water trek will start this spring.
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Follow us!
First step Rome to Bari 15th April 2017.
The street through Abruzzo with the sun on me crossing rivers and Fiume Orta in particular with the amazing smell of flowers reaching the soul and the emotional part of me, gives the sense to go forward. The mountains are still covered by snow , the spring with its colors dancing with the wind.
In Bari we met Enzo Tota and his wife. A little time to speak and put us in contct with their life. Through the words of Enzo I find again the beautiful meaning of what life is, the past the choice of bari for them as home. We spoked about his book curated with Vito Chio, that i promise to my self to read it.
Vinci Verginelli
´Precipitarono in cielo/montagne di nuvole nere, ombre vestite di gelo/ rotolando caddero a schiere.
L'acqua del Tebro cinerea/ guató brontolando fra i ponti: enorme biscia funerea/notturna sguisciante dai monti.
Qual le tue rive t'insozza, / qual le tue pietre rinnega, / o sacro Tevere strozza, / o Tevere, Tevere annega.
Inedited poem 1941-1948 of 'Notti di Capri'.
The Ferry is departing and we must go. Bari is now behind us and the horizon where the sea touches the sky meets the dark of the night on front of us.
Rome, 11th april 2017
Preparing the motorbike for the start of my trip in Greece represent a step of the begin of consciousness of what this will mean for me.
Starting to organize the trek and not only! The first time that I will travel alone, with my motorbike Honda 500 cc “ Tarantina”, to discover water realities but also my limits, possibilities and capacities to be in touch with myself and my country on the road, Greece.
Here we go. The weather seems to be good and the motorbike is ready!
The sun will sustain me in this first part of my trip.
